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Chapter One: LEAVING THE SARONIC GULF It was already heating up in hardly a waft as we motored out of the bay of St. George Stenou on the island of Salamis. We found a little bit of wind later on, just...

Chapter One: SAILING ALONG We had checked out of Lemnos, our favourite Greek island (so far), and were headed towards Evía, reputedly the largest Greek island. Near Skyros we were sailing under the starry...

Chapter One: AROUND MOUDROS As the weather forecast had foretold a change in the wind direction we had motored from one side of Moudros Bay to the other and had dropped our anchor off Nea Koútali. For...

Chapter One: HEADING FOR LEMNOS After some last minute provisioning we prepared Cordelia and at 8.20am we untied the last line and slipped our mooring. We motored out of the harbour, and while Ingrid...