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Chapter One: A HEARTY WELCOME We were underway at 5.30am, leaving Lemnos and heading for mainland Greece. We motorsailed for about 45 minutes to clear most of the island, then stopped the engine....

Chapter One: MEANDERS AT MOUDROS Another early start! At 5.00am the alarm went off when it was still quite dark outside. We got dressed, checked the forecast, and when we could see what we were doing...

Chapter One: ANYWHERE THE WIND BLOWS We were waiting for a weather window in Leros Marina, but still the wind kept coming. We even had to cancel the haul-out because of it, which left Cordelia with all...

Chapter One: WHAT WAS IT LIKE? Leros is a small island in the Dodecanese in Greece. It has a varied history, and in 1912 was occupied by the Italians. They stayed for 31 years, fortified the island and...